Category Archives: Design

Working on the Bungalow

As said before in my previous blogs, I have to work on a 1000 square foot bungalow. I’ve already finished my thumbnail and rough designs for the bungalow, so now all I have to do is to apply it onto AutoCAD.

I chose architectural units as inches, because that’s how most buildings are measured in; inches. Also, this way the drawing would be easier to draw because it’s would follow every unit in inches for the floor plan from the birds-eye-view (because inches are split into sixteenths and feet are split in twelfth). I wonder why buildings aren’t measured in centimetres and metres? THAT WOULD BE SO MUCH EASIER FOR BEGINNERS LIKE ME! Alright: I just Googled the answer to this, and it’s because the rest of the world measures their merchandise in inches, and it would be confusing for everyone else if they adopted the metric system (I guess it’s like why scientists have such big names for everything; so that it’s a universal name for all languages).

As in my rough drawing, the outer walls in the AutoCAD floor plan are a foot in width and the inner walls are half a foot in width. Instead of using the line thickness button, I decided to draw double lines (two lines) for all of my walls so that it won’t interfere with the other fixtures in the house. In addition, in the AutoCAD that I’m using, I am given a ton of pre-made fixtures like toilets and bathtubs and sinks, which will all just add to the looks of the final product.

Designing Bungalows

          Right now, I have to design a 1000 square foot bungalow (house containing only one floor). In a sense, the bungalow design will be similar  to  that of a condominium; however unlike condominiums, bungalows have a rooftop, a driveway, a yard, a foundation, a porch, a basement, stairs, a garage, 3 outside-doors (for the entrance, for the backyard and for the garage), windows located on all the outside walls of the house and possibly a chimney with a furnace. In addition, because the bungalow contains a basement; a laundry room/a separate room for the HVAC is not necessary; therefore allowing much more space than in the previous 800 square foot condominium that I had to design (at twice the price that is). 

          For now, the rough design of the bungalow that I created contains all of the compulsory rooms including a kitchen, a bathroom, a master bedrooms, a living room, a kitchen and stairs leading to the basement. Also, a guest room and a powder room was added. For roofing ideas, I chose to do an intersecting roof, as it works best for the shape of the bungalow that I am doing, and I’m assuming the bungalows are meant for Canadians (and in Canada, there is  A LOT of snow, so roof types like the butterfly roof or a flat roof aren’t the best ideas). The basement is 8 feet high, and the dimensions of my stairs are 6 inches high, 9 inches long in width and 36 inches lengthwise; so my stairs are probably going to bend in a “U” shape to reduce the amount of space that I’m using. To calculate the amount of room the stairs took on the first floor (to the basement), I had to first find out the minimum number of stairs needed that will allow enough headroom (so when someone walks down the stairs, they won’t hit themselves on the head). This number (minimum number of stairs for headroom) multiplied by each stairs’ area is equal to the amount of space that needs to be taken on the first floor. For me, I needed 9 stairs to allow enough headroom, so 9 x (6 x 9) = 486, hence I will need 486 square inches (or 40.5 square feet) of space on my first floor to put in the minimum number of stairs.

          My duty is to only draw the stairs from a birds-eye view, so for more help go to: http://daveosborne.com/dave/articles/stair-calculator.php

Using AutoCAD

          I did a short tutorial on how to use AutoCAD, so now I understand/remember a little more about it; just a little less than the basics. So now, I can draw lines by clicking the “line box” and then setting in coordinates from one end of the line to the other. I can hatch things by clicking the “hatch box” and selecting a face of what I drew to be hatched. AutoCAD is a VERY precise program that professional architects use to draw building designs or any other designs, so there are probably many other ways to hatch or draw lines in it, such as drawing lines based on its length and angle. It would be useful to know all of these different methods of doing things, depending on the different situations given (like quickly calculating the length of edges or the angle without the use of a pencil and paper for trigonometry). In addition to this, there are also many 3-D techniques that must be learned from AutoCAD; however I don’t think I’ll be learning how to do that in the near future…

          In my opinion, I think AutoCAD is somewhat easy to understand (the beginners tutourial, though) and I would understand why it would be suitable for professional architects/designers to use it. Often, I mess up on what I do in AutoCAD; hence I have to start over again. However, as I continued using it, I got to understand more of it with some help from my peers. So I guess AutoCAD’s alright, and I would suggest anyone who wants to proceed into architecture and design to purchase it and learn how to use it.

Technical Specifications

          In order to have a proper, LEGAL condominium design (or any other house design) there are certain technical specifications that are required. For instance, the area between the bathtub rim and any other fixture must be at least 24 inches (I may have said this before in a previous blog). Also, the area between a sink/vanity and any other fixture must be at least 21 inches. A hanging light in a bathroom cannot be in range of 36 inches horizontally to the bathtub rim and 96 inches vertically from the bathtub rim. There must be a form of ventilation in the bathroom (obviously) to suck away the stink or steam from water closets (toilets) and baths. In addition, there must be heating in the bathroom (and any other living rooms) to regulate a temperature of 20 degrees Celsius.

          In addition to these legal specifications, there are also many other construction benefits that can/should be taken when designing condos. The doors need to open inwards to rooms instead of outwards. As a result, it’ll be easier for people to enter buildings because they only have to push the door inwards, compared to taking the time to walk backwards, pulling the door out and then entering in again (the optimal construction methods are the laziest construction methods).

Refer to this website for more technical specifications on houses and more!:

http://starcraftcustombuilders.com/

Final Condo Designs

          After completing all the thumbnail designs and the rough designs, now I must complete the Final Design. There are many different programs that can be used to create the Final Designs, like Autocad, Google Sketchup or by drawing it. Autocad is a very precise, VERY DIFFICULT, program that professional architects and designers use when working on buildings. I know only very little of how to use Autocad (probably less than the basics), and if I were to create my drawing with Autocad, then it would probably take many hours to do, as there are SO MANY steps and things to remember for how to draw 2-D drawings (Autocad is capable of 3-D drawings as well, although I know nothing of how to do that). Google Sketchup is far more user-friendly, and it is able to produce 2-D or 3-D drawings in less than a thousand steps! Also, Google Sketchup is FREE. I chose to draw my final design by hand, not for any specific, advantageous reasons, but because I enjoy drawing things by hand than on the computer. Drawing the image will take far longer than in Google Sketchup, and it also won’t be 100% precise as Autocad; however drawing the Final Design (in my opinion) allows more flexible designs; I guess it’s like a computer generated picture compared to painting something by hand.

Condominium Specs.

          After finishing my 3 condominium thumbnail designs, I have chosen one to do for a rough drawing. I’ve already finished my rough drawing, with all the specific wall thickness (approximately half a foot) and room sizes. All I need to do now is to choose specific things (by specific I mean the kitchen cabinets that you can find at Home Depot) to place into the condominium. Because the budget to the condominium is unlimited, and the ceiling size can also be any number I choose, I will probably add a gigantic chandelier above the living room and add, I don’t know… golden floor tiles? I’m not that creative with interior designs, so I’m viewing the different luxury designs I see through the internet. There are Swarovski crystal studded toilets ($75, 000), Swarovski crystal studded fridges ($20, 000) and even an outdoor kitchen barbecue (for the balcony)! 

          So far, the entire condominium is rectangular in shape and all the rooms are also rectangular. I did this because condominiums usually try to fit as many different rooms as possible; therefore having rectangles will most probably fit best. The sizes of the bathroom and master room and the room for the HVAC and storage are all ridiculously large, which I really like. However, they only bad thing about this is that it greatly limits the size of the kitchen and living room. As a result, I had to fuse my kitchen and living room in a small compact space. But then condominiums are  quite small overall themselves, so I’d assume that not many people would host large parties in their condominium. So I guess the condominium I created is more for the owners of the condominium than their friends or visitors; it’s a Hermit’s Condominium.

Designing Condominiums

          The airplane project that I recently had didn’t go as well as I hoped it would. But now, I have a newer project at hand; to build a miniature condominium.

          Like all condominiums, I must include a kitchen, one bathroom, one (or more) rooms, a living room and one of those rooms in which one puts their water heating tank in along with doing their laundry. In addition, the condominium must take up a maximum space of 800 square feet. Oh yeah, and if I were to add a balcony to the condominium, then the area would not count as a part of the 800 square feet limit that I am given. One more thing; the budget for the condominium is unlimited. Right now, I’m still doing the 3 thumbnail floor plans. The plans are just roughly drawn to give me an idea to what kind of condominium  I want to build; however they all must follow the regulations for all condominiums, like the minimum amount of space there must be between the bathtub and any other part of the building that takes up space, and that one cannot hold a swimming pool in or out of the condominium. 

          With an unlimited budget, I can install anything (legal) I want into the condominium! I could add trap doors and speakers all around the house and a Bidet toilet (a type of super cool toilet that does not require the user to use toilet paper after they have completed their… business… as the toilet is capable of shooting water from underneath to clean one’s behind)! Although this house would be a house that I would very much admire, designers must keep in mind that the condominium is for the generic human being; therefore they must make it optimal for whoever lives there.

Airplane Testing 3

In my two previous posts, I talked about how I tested two of my airplanes, the far flying airplane and my trick flying airplane. In this post, I will talk about how my straight flying airplane flew.

For the straight flying airplane, the airplane must be able to fly as far as possible in a straight path. In order to do this, I made a gliding airplane build with sturdy wings to prevent it from turning or rolling or going upwards. However, instead of flying straight and far as I thought it would, the airplane flew up and made sharp turns to the right, for the first 3 flights. As a result, I decided to add large ailerons on each wing, to possibly “cut” the wind and force the airplane to fly in a straight path. Ultimately, the plane actually flew in a very straight path without performing any rolls, dives, turns or anything else that would interfere with its flight pattern.

On the final day of tests, I had to fly all 3 of my flights, all of which were upgraded to perform based on their name (far, trick and straight flying airplanes). The first plane that I flew was my straight flying airplane. Instead of doing what it was supposed to be doing when I was testing it, the airplane made a great turn to the right; therefore having a great angle of deviation, which is bad. In the end, the straight flying airplane was a bust, a failure. The second airplane that I flew was the far flying airplane. By increasing the ailerons significantly, the plane flew very far and glided for a long time. But this was only for one of the flights. After the airplane glides, it immediately dives into the ground; thus bending the tip of the airplane harshly, and decreasing the aerodynamics of the airplane. Finally, my final airplane, which was the trick flying airplane flew quite well. I changed the way I threw the plane by launching it upwards with an underhand throw, instead of throwing it in front of me. This way, the trick airplane would have more time to “dance” in the sky. For all 3 of the trick airplane flights, the trick airplane performed nicely, as it performed several loops and some spins (only when it dives into the ground).

Airplanes Testing 2

          In the previous post, I talked about the tests I’ve done to my first paper airplane, the far flying airplane. This time, I’ve tested my second plane, the trick flying airplane. (and by tested I mean in a space with a high ceiling and a wide space without any wind to blow my plane away). In the first couple test flights, I launched the airplane in approximately a 25 degree angle. Oddly enough, the first thing it does is that it dives right into the ground. The trick airplane is supposed to be rated based on the number of spins or loops it does, and how it “dances” in the air. Luckily, when the plane dived into the ground, it made 2-4 spins, which I think is alright for the first test flights. Afterwards, an acquaintance of mine told me to throw the plane upwards, almost vertically, so that when it dives into the ground it would have a chance to gain enough lift and fly upwards; therefore making a loop. I tried doing this, and the results were better than I expected! Instead of plummeting into the ground, the airplane actually made a couple of loops in the sky, and then dive vertically into the ground, while making 2-3 spins also. 

The factor causing the airplane to hit the ground is probably because of the size of the ailerons. As a result, I plan on decreasing the size of the ailerons significantly or even remove them altogether, although this might also limit the tricks that it is capable of doing. So, I might even add elevators in addition to the ailerons to possibly increase the number of loops that it can do before it swirls into the ground. Or maybe I can even fold the airplane wings further downward to increase the lift given to the plane. But I still won’t know the results unless I test the airplane once more, so I might as well do a little more research for creating the best of the best airplanes.


Airplane Testing

          In the previous blog, I talked about how I had to create 3 different airplanes; one that can fly as far as possible, one that flies as straight as possible and one that is capable of doing loops and tricks in the sky. Now that a week has passed, I’ve finally finished all 3 of my airplanes! This website helped me create one of my paper flying airplanes (referred to as the Lightning Paper Airplane in the website). I adjusted some of the ailerons (side flaps) and elevators (bottom of wing flaps) to change some of the flight characteristics. I suggest that everyone take a look at this website. There is a great selection of paper airplanes that could be created, and this site includes a great number of them.

<p><A HREF=”http://www.paperairplanes.co.uk/planes.php”>paper airplane designs</A> – How to make the best paper airplanes for free.</p>

          So far, I have tested my far flying airplane (and by tested I mean in a space with a high ceiling and a wide space without any wind to blow my plane away). The far flying airplane flies and glides for a long time; however in all 6 of my test flights, it kept making U-turns and then landing about 5 feet behind me! This is probably because I folded one of my ailerons too deeply, which made my far flying airplane role too much. Also my angle of attack ranged from around 25 to 40 degrees in all my test flights, which I now think is a little too great for paper airplanes. One more thing that might affect this is that while I was testing my airplane, I launched it with all the force I had, because I thought the harder I threw it, the more thrust it would have. The airplane that I was using for far flying was actually more of a “gliding airplane;” hence as it gains more thrust, there will be more air pressure to increase the lift and then send the plane turning in whatever direction. In my case, making a U-turn behind me. Other paper airplanes with smaller and more narrow wingspans will be able to fly in a straight direction; however without an actual, powerful force acting beneath them, I have found that they would fly only as far as how hard they were thrown. What I want to do is to create an airplane that can fly a straight path and glide without exerting too much force. As a result, I will make a few more adjustments to the far flying paper airplane I have now.